I’m sure Glashütte’s inhabitants had envisioned celebrating 175 years of its watchmaking industry much differently than it has turned out. This little town has such a moving and industrious history to celebrate. It’s nice to see that some of the prepared events are going ahead now following a hard year of COVID-19 restrictions, even if in a different way than initially envisioned. Walter Lange memorial statue unveiled in Glashütte, Germany on September 18, 2020 One of these special events involves the memorial statue of Walter Lange that was commissioned by…Leer más
Suspended in that tiny 855 square millimeter net is the caliber RM27-04 movement, a tourbillon-equipped, manually-wound movement that has been fully skeletonized and can be seen from either side of the darkly matte featherweight case. As mentioned above, all of these elements come together in a package that is only 30 grams in weight. For reference, I recently weighed a steel 38.5mm three-hander from a popular microbrand at 134 grams with its bracelet sized. Want more? In 2017, Richard Mille announced the RM 50-03 McLaren F1, the lightest split-second chronograph in the world at the time. It weighs 40 grams. Finally, the original RM 027 weighed just 20 grams (19 for the RM 27-01), so while the 27-04 is a bit heavier, none of the previous Rafa RMs could match 12,000 Gs. You can only bend physics so far, at least until the 27-05.Leer más
Llegó una renovación cromática como primer síntoma de que Chronoswiss buscaba un nuevo horizonte estético. Y ese impulso intuitivo por renovar el diseño, ahora se plasma de forma expresa en un nuevo mecanismo. Oliver Ebstein no ha optado por otra versión de su icónico Regulador, sino que apuesta por un esqueletado de factura realmente moderna. Este SkelTec abre nueva colección, así como un mundo de posibilidades para lo que la propia firma llama “nueva era del esqueletado”. De la colección Sirius, Chronoswiss también presenta una reedición del Opus Chronograph, una…Leer más
Ciga Design may not be a brand that you are familiar with and to be honest nor was I until they approached us to have us take a look at one of their watches – in this case, their Z Series DLC Automatic. But let us rewind and go back to the start. Ciga Design was established in November 2012 by Zhang Jianming, an accomplished designer with over 30 years of experience in industrial design and is known for being in the top ten designers in China. Just a mere…Leer más
What makes these watches all the more endearing is the implementation of the color scheme. It is different from the other collections present on this list in that regard. On the Endurance Pro, the strap is where you really first see the color. In all, there is blue, white, yellow, red, and orange. Each watch has a corresponding, and color-matched, signed Breitling strap. The color matching is not necessarily to the dial either, but rather various nooks and crannies on the case and flange, which bring out the color in a more nuanced sort of way (if you can even call a dial design this complex nuanced). The black dial keeps things professional, and the splashes of color on the pulsation scale, crown, and pusher keeps things fun. Oh, it also doesn’t hurt that the most recent winner of the Tour de France – Tadej Pogacar – had one on wrist when he crossed the finish line.Leer más
We’ve all been spending a lot more time at home recently – living, working, and doing everything in between. Spending so much time in a single space, or a series of rooms, naturally leads to a desire to improve and add some character that might be lacking. As watch-people, other “time” related items are of […]
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La casa Glashütte Original nos presenta su nuevo Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920. Un reloj en edición limitada creado con motivo del centenario del diseño del … Leer MásLa entrada Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 de Glashütte Original es un texto original en Debajo del Reloj.Leer más
It took me several years to fall in love with vintage Rolex GMT Master reference 1675. I had ignored it so long, that I ended up paying for it. Literally. As both vintage or modern Rolex GMT Masters aren‘t cheap, I’ve decided to put together a shortlist of my Top 5 alternative Pepsi bezels for you. If you want to thank me, I will accept payment in soda form… Let’s see which one wins the Fratelli’s heart. To shake it up a bit, we decided to mix together a few…Leer más
When you think of the brand name “Rolls-Royce,” what comes to mind? For most, it’s probably any number of luxury cars, perhaps driven by a chauffeur, with a jar of Grey Poupon in the glove box. And we certainly think of the Spirit of Ecstasy, the iconic Rolls-Royce hood ornament (bonnet ornament, if we want […]
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The Aquanaut is a relatively young collection for Patek Philippe. The first generation, Ref. 5060, debuted in 1997 as a little brother to the Nautilus. From that point on, the series progressed to the second generation, 5065 (1998), and then to the current generation, 5167 (2007). The one we have here for review is the Ref. 5168 (2017 onwards), which is dubbed Jumbo, a larger version of the current generation Aquanaut.
This watch was introduced at Baselworld 2019 with a 42.2mm case in 18K white gold, khaki green dial, and rubber strap. Considering that the original 5060 is 35mm, the 5065 is 38mm (aka “Large”), and the current 5167 is 40mm, there is no doubt this “Jumbo” is a watch with some serious presence. I think it reflects Patek Philippe’s positioning of the Aquanaut as a sportier collection in its catalog. For Patek Philippe, 42.2mm is one of the largest watches, and only rivaled by the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar (both 42mm), and the Celestial (44mm), which is a Grand Complication.
The big brother Nautilus is staying at 40mm, and even its annual calendar with moon-phase and chronograph-equipped variants are kept at the 40.5mm mark. The Aquanaut is clearly positioned within the luxury sport watch category. By the way, there is also a complication-equipped variant, the Aquanaut Ref. 5968A Automatic Chronograph, which shares the “Jumbo” case.