Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force 18ct Rose Gold Version

After the great success of the Gravity Equal Force model in stainless steel, Swiss luxury watch manufacture Armin Strom has created a new edition in an 18ct rose gold case with black alligator leather strap. The black dial gives the remarkable timepiece an elegant retro character and highlights the new design of the watch with striking contrast.

Introduced in 2019, the Gravity Equal Force (in stainless steel) is the first model of the new System 78 Collection by Armin Strom. This innovative watch takes the traditional mainspring barrel and turns it on its head by adding a stop-work declutch mechanism combined with automatic winding to create consistent power delivery to the balance. With a bold redesign of the movement, dial and case, Gravity Equal Force marked the launch of the new System 78 Collection, highlighting innovative watchmaking at a competitive price.

This year, the manufacture adds a rose gold model to this line. The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force model in 18ct rose gold case is priced at CHF 26,900.
Technical details
Model: Gravity Equal ForceRef. RG19-GEF.85.AL.M.35
IndicationsHours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator
MovementArmin Strom manufacture Caliber ASB19Automatic winding with microrotor, Geneva-drive equal force barrel, offset display with subdial secondsRegulating system: Balance wheel with 4 regulating screwsPower reserve: Geneva stop-work limited to 72 hoursDimensions: 35.52 mm x 11.67 mmFrequency: 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph)Finishing: Hand-finishing to the highest quality levelJewels: 28Number of components: 202
Case18ct rose goldSapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatmentDiameter: 41 mmHeight: 12,65mmWater resistance: 3ATM
DialOffset with subdialHands: Manufactured by Armin Strom – rose gold with hand finishing
StrapDelivered with a genuine black alligator leather strap and 18ct rose gold ardillon buckleA 18ct rose gold double-folding clasp is an option
PriceCHF 26,900

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Oileán H-B1 by John McGonigle

Oileán is an haute-horlogerie brand founded by Independent watchmaker John McGonigle.
John McGonigle was born in Athlone in Ireland. The brand name Oileán (pronounced ill-awn) is Gaelic for ‘Island’. As an Independent watchmaker, John processes several years of experience in developing high complication watches including a number of notable projects for various Swiss luxury watch manufactures. A former member of the prestigious AHCI of Switzerland, he returned to Ireland in 1999 to set up his own watchmaking atelier. He also established the McGonigle watch brand in 2006 in partnership with his brother Stephen.
Oileán Watches is the latest project by John McGonigle. The introductory model from Oileán Watches is the H-B1, a manual wind chronograph with triple calendar and moonphase. The H-B1 is a made in Ireland timepiece with a Swiss heart beating inside. Paying tributes to the cultural history of the Celtic region, this high-complication watch houses a hand-finished movement based on the legendary Valjoux 88 calibre.
The H-B1 model has a 40mm diameter, classic styled case made from Grade 5 Titanium. This distinctive watch case highlights contrasting polished and straight grained finishes on its surface.

The beautifully sculpted and finished titanium case also incorporates a crown at 3H for time-setting and winding, pushers at 2H and 4H for operating chronograph mechanism and two corrector pushers for adjusting the calendar mechanism. The corrector pusher at 10H is used for setting date and month. For setting day and moon-phase, the corrector pusher at 8.30H is used.
The movement driving the Oileán H-B1 model is a heavily modified and hand-finished vintage Valjoux 88 manual winding triple-calendar chronograph movement. The type of chronograph is a twin-pusher, column wheel featuring central seconds and counters for 30 minute and 12 hour.
Topped with a sapphire crystal glass, the Oileán H-B1 watch provides a clear view of its dial indications. This timepiece houses a multi-layer dial featuring a smoked sapphire crystal central insert and outer printed section in black and silver. The smoked sapphire crystal dial hosts hour, minute, chronograph central seconds hands, central date hand, chronograph 30-minute and 12 hour registers, small seconds dial, and two windows for displaying day and month. The black dial ring features steel hour marking indexes embedded with luminescent material. The silver outer ring features dates of the month inscribed in black digits from 1 to 31.
Both the movement and the rotating discs of day and month are visible through the sapphire dial. Hour and minutes are indicated by two rhodium plated steel hands with spear shaped tips inserted with luminescent material. The central date hand is blued and treated with luminescent material on its spear-head shaped pointer.
The blued, extra-long chronograph central seconds hand has luminescent coating on its pointing side and features a spear shaped counter-weight. The 30 minute chronograph counter at 3H, 12 hour chronograph counter at 6H and small seconds dial at 9H feature blued and spear-head shaped hands with luminescent tips. The 12 hour chronograph dial also features a moon-phase display as well as the inscription IRELAND as a tribute to the founder’s country of origin. The radiating color of the luminescent material used in this watch is blue.

The mechanical manual-wound movement that powers the Oileán H-B1 watch beats at 21,600 a/h and provides a power reserve of 40 hours. For finishing each movement, the watchmaker employs techniques like beveling and polishing of component edges, straight graining/flat polishing for steel parts and gold or rhodium plating for main plate and bridges.
The Oileán H-B1 watch is secured with a screwed case-back with transparent sapphire crystal glass that generously offers the fascinating views of the high horology movement. Secured with 4 large screws, the stainless steel ring of the case-back features the engravings OILEÁN and MADE IN IRELAND.
The watch is worn on a black leather strap with titanium pin buckle. Its production will be limited to eight pieces per year.
Technical details
Model: Oileán H-B1
CaseMaterial: Grade 5 TitaniumDiameter: 40 mmHeight: 14.20 mmWater resistance: up to 3 bar (30 meters)Glass: sapphire, convex, double anti-reflectiveCaseback: Secured by screws, sapphire glassCrown: Embossed with logo, two gaskets
MovementHighly modified, hand-finished vintage Valjoux 88Manual windingPower reserve: approximately 40 hoursBalance frequency: 21,600 a/hAll component edges hand bevelled and polishedAll steel components straight grained with shellac stone or flat polished on tin with diamond pasteBridges and mainplate available with gold or rhodium plating
FunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month, moonphase, chronograph
Chronograph mechanismTwin pusherColumn-wheelCentral seconds30-minute and 12 hour registers on sub-dials
Triple Calendar mechanismDay and month displayed in windowsCentral pointer date indicating on outer sectorMoon phaseCorrector pushers for adjusting the calendar mechanism (tool supplied)
DialSmoked sapphire crystal central insertOuter printed section in black and silverDay and Moth discs available in white or black
HandsHour and Minute hands rhodium plated with luminescent tipsBlued chronograph hands with luminescent tipsBlued central date hand with luminescent tip
StrapBlack leather strapClasp: Titanium pin buckle
EditionLimited production of eight pieces per annum
WarrantyTwo years manufacture
Price€23,500 + Tax
Website: www.oilean.watch

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe New Model with Sedna® Gold Case and Blue Dial (Ref. 5000-36S40-O52A)

Blancpain’s popular Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe model, renowned for its dual function as a diving instrument and civilian timepiece, is now available in a version combining a blue dial and bezel with a Sedna® gold case.
The history of the Fifty Fathoms goes back to 1953, when Blancpain unveiled a timepiece that was to become the first professional diver’s watch. A few years later, Blancpain complemented this time measuring instrument with the Bathyscaphe model, thereby aiming to offer a diver’s watch in a size suited to everyday wear.

Reissued in 2013 in a contemporary version to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms, the Bathyscaphe has since been enriched with a wide choice of models, both in terms of complications and materials. For the first time combining a blue dial and bezel with a Sedna® gold case, the new Bathyscaphe by Blancpain is an elegant addition designed to delight lovers of water sports and beautiful watches as well as experienced divers.

The deep blue color exalts its shimmering reflections and plays with light thanks to the sunburst finish of the dial. Rectangular hour-markers and the chapter ring composed of gold and Super-LumiNova® dots further make their contribution to endowing the dial with an elegant and perfectly legible appearance in any situation. Complemented by a slim seconds hand and a date window, the hour and minute hands are also rectangular and coated with Super-LumiNova®, evoking the Bathyscaphe watches of the 1950s.

Crafted from Sedna® gold – a gold, copper and palladium alloy guaranteeing the exceptional durability of red gold –, the 43 mm case features a sharp outline and satin finish that gives the Bathyscaphe a sporty yet refined look. The Sedna® gold unidirectional rotating bezel is fitted with a ceramic insert including a Ceragold® time scale and hour-markers.

Water-resistant to 300 meters, the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe beats to the rhythm of the 1315 caliber. Stemming from a longstanding quest for precision and performance, this self-winding movement was specially developed and produced by Blancpain to equip its sports watches.
Its three series-coupled barrels provide it with a five-day power reserve while maintaining constant energy. Its balance features a silicon balance-spring that ensures remarkable regularity of the oscillation frequency as well as impermeability to magnetic fields.

A sapphire case-back provides visual access to the movement, revealing all the beauty of a sandblasted, satin-finished and snailed Sedna® gold oscillating weight engraved with the Blancpain logo, along with snailed and beveled bridges.
Technical details
CaseSedna® gold caseUnidirectional Sedna® gold bezel with ceramic insert and Ceragold® hour-markersDiameter: 43.00 mmThickness: 13.40 mmSapphire crystal backWater resistance: 30 bar/300 metersInter-horn space: 23.00 mm
MovementCalibre 1315 self-windingThickness: 5.65mmDiameter: 30.60mmComponents: 227Jewels: 35Power reserve: 120 hours
DialBlue dial

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Moritz Grossmann HAMATIC Vintage

Moritz Grossmann launches HAMATIC Vintage with shiny ‘blackor’ dial and vintage ‘M. Grossmann’ logo from 1875.
The HAMATIC Vintage draws its kinetic energy from the arm movement of the watch wearer. The movement of the arm continuously deflects a pendulum in the shape of a hammer with a heavy gold hammer head. This kinetic energy is transferred via the ratchet wheel to the mainspring in the barrel and winds the watch.
Inspired by the vintage idea, the Moritz Grossmann designers adopted the traditional concept of an automatic hammer winding system from the 19th century and refined it according to the principles of Grossmann’s supreme craftsmanship, resulting in a new movement.
The elaborate design of the hammer mechanism, known as the HAMATIC for short, provides a stage for the strikingly crafted gold hammer head and reveals the fascinating mechanics and exceptional finish of Grossmann’s 106.0 movement. The oval hammer body is open in the middle, offering a clear view of the beauty of the highly sophisticated mechanism.

The new version of the HAMATIC in 750/000 white gold comes with a vintage style dial and is limited to 25 models worldwide. The dial has been given a new and exclusive finish. The surface was first painted in a black-anthracite colour. The mirror-polished background on a German silver base was then treated with a finish called ‘black or’, which created a shiny black surface.
Large Roman numerals in white form an attractive contrast to the black dial of the HAMATIC Vintage. The vintage ‘M. Grossmann’ logo from 1875 and handcrafted polished – hand s measuring a m ere 0.1 mm wide are an homage to the old pocket watches of Moritz Grossmann.

The calibre 106.0 was especially designed for the HAMATIC. This classic pillar movement has a 2/3 plate and six Glashütte stripes. The hammer winding mechanism works in two directions and winds the watch, regardless of the direction in which the watch wearer moves his arm. The winding mechanism via two click wheels is also highly energy efficient. The alternating, even winding over both wheels ensures that the mechanism is highly reliable. A power reserve of 72 hours is available when the movement is fully wound, which means that the HAMATIC continues to run for three days without any further movement.
Another advantage of the hammer-style pendulum system is that the hammer’s centre of mass is further away from its rotational axis in the HAMATIC. This results in a high torque, which means a powerful force acting on the spring. Hammer movements from just five degrees, which correspond to an oscillation of 2 mm, are used to wind the mainspring. The constant winding when the watch is worn also ensures that the spring is evenly tensioned, thus ensuring a high degree of precision.
The newly designed movement offers a further advantage. People do not always move in the same way. Movements are fast and slow. The former generate excessive deflections of the hammer body, which need to be attenuated and limited by fixed end stops. This shock absorption is ensured by intricately crafted end springs in the hammer frame. More gentle movements, on the other hand, result in a lower hammer amplitude. Friction losses are virtually non-existent and energy transmission is nearly loss-free.
In order to achieve a continuous rotary motion of the wheels for winding, the oscillations of the hammer body are picked up by two click levers and transferred to two click wheels. The two-way direction of rotation of the click wheels ensures an even rotary motion. This transfers the energy to the ratchet wheel in the mainspring barrel via the free wheel.

The watch can be wound by hand in addition to the self-winding mechanism. To achieve this, a manual winder designed as a yoke winder is mounted on a separate bridge. The yoke ensures that the manual winder is always uncoupled from the ratchet wheel when the HAMATIC system is active in response to motion. In manual winding mode, the reduction gear is isolated from the ratchet wheel by the click-pawl idler.
The HAMATIC also offers a stop-second function via the balance for ultra-precise time setting.
The HAMATIC Vintage in the white gold version with black ‘black-or’ dial and ‘M.Grossmann’ logo is limited to 25 watches worldwide.
Technical details
Reference: MG-002708
MovementManufactory calibre 106.0, automatic winding, regulated in five positionsNo. of parts: 312Jewels: 38, of which 3 in screwed gold chatonsEscapement: Lever escapementOscillator: Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance springBalance – Diameter: 10.0 mm, frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations/hourPower reserve: 72 hours when fully woundOperating elements: Crown in 750/000 gold for winding the watch and setting the timeMovement dimensions – Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.15 mm
FunctionsHour and minute, small second with stop seconds
CaseThree-part, in 750/000 goldDiameter: 41.0 mmHeight: 11.35 mmCrystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Dial‘Black-or’ shiny black, white Roman numeralsHands: Manually crafted from steel, polished
StrapHand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in 750/000 gold
Special featuresGrossmann balance; click pawl in reduction gear; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver, hand-engraved 2/3 plate and cantilevered balance cock; wide, horizontal Glashütte ribbing, double-band snailing on the mainspring barrel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting; automatic winding with oscillating hammer, bidirectional click wheels; idler with pawl clicks, manual yoke winder
Limited edition25 watches

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Moritz Grossmann Backpage Transparent Limited Edition

With its new BACKPAGE Transparent watch, the German watch manufacture Moritz Grossmann offers a showcase for the beauty of Grossmann’s watchmaking artistry. The watchmakers from Grossmann have designed the calibre 107.0 with a mirrored High Artistic Finish and moved it to the dial side.

The moving spectacle of the movement with Grossmann’s balance wheel, ratchet wheel, crown wheel and Glashütte stopwork with backlash can be admired in its entirety through the transparent sapphire crystal dial.

Calibre 107.0 is essentially a mirror image of the calibre 100.1, but with crucial new design elements. An additional wheel between the crown wheel and the ratchet wheel reverses the entire drive train with respect to the rotation of the mainspring barrel. The wheel train runs in the right direction thanks to the mirrored escapement and the mirrored oscillation system – also including the balance spring coiling direction.

Both the design and construction of the balance cock and escape-wheel cock were adapted to the larger dimensions of the 3/4 plate. The escapement wheel and the cantilevered balance cock with its hand-engraved, floral pattern create a balanced accent in the overall arrangement of the movement. The High-Artistic finish showcases attractive hand engravings, bevels, and chamfers.

Black Moritz Grossmann lettering adorns the transparent sapphire crystal dial. The full minute scale and an hour display from 11 to 5 o’clock and the subsidiary seconds are also in black and form a beautiful contrast to the rose gold and white gold colours of the case. Handcrafted hands and screws annealed to a brown-violet hue in the manufactory complete the elegant spectrum of colours.

To display the winding wheels on the dial side, the dial train was reconfigured and exquisitely finished. The artistically crafted train wheels were arranged beneath a lavishly polished minute-wheel bridge.
By moving the hand setting mechanism to the opposite side of the movement, the setting wheel extends all the way through the calibre. The new arrangement created space for the optimised barrel bearing and the ratchet wheel, which was also shifted to the front side.

On the new rear side of the movement, the winding and hand-setting mechanism is now openly integrated in the train bridge, so its functionality can be fully observed for the first time. Almost all parts are mirrored in order to guarantee their function even when mounted in the opposite position while ensuring the position of the lever remains unchanged.
After a short pull on the winding crown, the mechanism switches from winding mechanism to hand setting. At the same time, the brake position is sampled at the clutch lever and this motion is transferred to the brake spring via a push rod, which stops the balance. After adjusting the hands, the movement can be comfortably restarted by activating the pusher below the winding crown and the push rod returns to its rest position.
This technical highlight is a mechanism developed by Moritz Grossmann that prevents dust from getting into the movement and prevents the hands from being accidentally adjusted when the crown is pushed back.

The BACKPAGE Transparent is available in rose gold and white gold with a dark brown alligator leather strap. Both the rose gold and white gold versions of the BACKPAGE Transparent are limited to eight pieces each worldwide.

Versions
Rose gold model
Reference: MG-002716Case: 750/000 rose goldDial: Transparent sapphire crystal with black numerals and indexesHands: Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hueLimited edition: 8 watches
White gold model
Reference: MG-002570Case: 750/000 white goldDial: Transparent sapphire crystal with black numerals and indexesHands: Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hueLimited edition: 8 watches
Technical details
MovementManufactory calibre 107.0, manual winding, regulated in five positionsNo. of parts: 230Jewels: 24 jewels, 11 gold chatons, of which 7 in screwed chatonsEscapement: Lever escapementOscillator: Shock-absorbed Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometryBalance – Diameter: 14.2 mm, frequency: 18,000 semioscillations/hourPower reserve: 42 hours when fully woundMovement dimensions – Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.0 mm
FunctionsHours, minutes and subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusherOperating elements Crowns in precious metal to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in precious metal to start the movement
CaseThree-part, precious metalDiameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.35 mmCrystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
DialTransparent sapphire crystal, printed baton indexes and number 12Hands: Manually crafted from steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue
StrapHand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in precious metal
Special featuresBalance staff with integrated safety roller, location of the impulse pin in the balance (Glashütte style); index adjuster with Grossmann micrometer screw; plate movement with 3/4 plate on dial side, frame pillars and separately removable clutch winding mechanism; visible hand setting train on the back side of the movement; frame parts in untreated German silver; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; ratchet wheel with stopwork on the modified spring barrel bearing with a gold chaton in the ratchet wheel; dial train wheels spoked and bevelled, beneath polished bridge

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BOVET 1822 Miss Audrey & Monsieur Bovet New Models with Green Guilloché Dial

In 2020, the House of BOVET is presenting its iconic Miss Audrey and Monsieur Bovet watches in new avatars adorned with a green guilloché dial.
Since its launch in 2015, Monsieur Bovet has become the symbol of timepieces featuring the iconic patented Amadéo® convertible case. Its elegance, understated design, and two faces make it a fitting timepiece for every moment in the life of the modern man.

This precious timepiece is powered by an in-house movement that offers seven days of power reserve with a single barrel. The guilloché motif on Monsieur Bovet’s two dials is an extension of the Maison BOVET’s symbol since 1822: a lotus flower with twelve petals that symbolizes the twelve hours counted on the dials. It is decorated with fine appliqué of Arabic numerals.

The House of BOVET continues to enhance its women’s collection in 2020. As demonstrated by the new edition of the Miss Audrey timepiece. It now features a green guilloché dial inspired by the lotus flower that reflects sumptuous shades.

This timepiece is also housed in the Amadéo® convertible case, crafted in steel with a 36 mm diameter. The bezel and the iconic bow are set with white diamonds that beautifully enhance the dial.
The case’s convertible feature allows the timepiece to be worn on the wrist, transformed into a table clock or turned into a majestic pendant without needing to use any tools. To match the dial in perfect harmony, Mr. Raffy, BOVET 1822’s owner, has designed an original long jade bead necklace that highlights the refinement of the timepiece. Powered by an automatic movement displaying the date at 6 o’clock, Miss Audrey is a timepiece that offers the comfort of use that is rare for such a gem.

BOVET 1822’s craftsmen have once again skillfully combined their talents to create these two timepieces. The dial-makers add the finishing touch that attracts every eye. Several months of development and fine-tuning were required to accomplish the end result. The process that they follow to achieve excellence is extremely demanding.
Each dial is guillochéd and then lacquered on a metal plate with a diameter that is greater than the finished dial. It is only once that the different layers of lacquer are applied that they carry out the drilling and machining operations.
Technical details
Model: Amadéo Fleurier 36 Miss AudreyReference Number AS36011-SD12
CaseType: Amadéo® convertible systemDiameter: 36mmThickness: 11mmMaterial: Stainless steelSetting: Bow and bezel set with 103 round-cut diamonds (~0.99ct)Water resistance: 30 m
MovementCaliber 11BA15Type: Self-windingDiameter: 11 ½’’’Frequency: 28,800 v/hPower reserve: 42 hours
FunctionsHours, minutes, date
DialGreen or blue guilloche or aventurine glass, set with 4 diamonds (~0.048ct)
StrapSynthetic satin or full-grain alligatorBuckle: Stainless steel ardillonNecklace: Rhodium-plated silver
PatentConvertible Amadéo® case
PriceCHF. 20’500.-
Model: Amadéo Fleurier 43 Monsieur BovetReference Number AI43026
CaseType: Amadéo® convertible systemDiameter: 43 mmThickness: 12.35 mmMaterial: 18K red or white goldWater resistance: 30m
MovementCaliber 13BM09A1Type: Hand-woundDiameter: 13 ¾’’’Frequency: 21,600 vphPower reserve: 7 days
FunctionsHours, minutes, double coaxial seconds, reversed hand-fitting, (hours, minutes and seconds), power reserve indicator
DialsGreen, blue, red or black guilloche
StrapFull-grain alligatorBuckle: 18K red or white gold ardillonChain: 18K gold-plated silver or rhodium-plated silver
PatentsConvertible Amadéo® caseDouble coaxial seconds
Warranty5 years
PriceCHF. 50’000.- (red gold), CHF. 53’000.- (white gold)

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BOVET 1822 Virtuoso VII Perpetual Calendar New Model with Green Guilloché Dial

The new BOVET 1822 Virtuoso VII is a high complication watch equipped with a retrograde perpetual calendar, an inverted hand-fitting, a double coaxial second hand and a convertible case.
The perpetual calendar is one of the most highly prized watchmaking complications among collectors. It shows the full date that accounts for the specific length of each month, whether 28, 29, 30, or 31 days. The Virtuoso VII timepiece shows the date, day of the week, month, and leap year cycle. Other indications include power reserve, hours, minutes, and seconds displayed on both dials of the timepiece.

The 2020 Virtuoso VII collection is being expanded with a new model available as a limited edition in red or white gold with a sumptuous green guilloché dial. Once again, the dial makers have displayed great virtuosity in creating not only the two dials but also the various display elements in a reduced size.
Despite the reduced thickness of both the hours and minutes dials, they still boast the delicate, unique guilloché pattern designed by Mr. Raffy. The pattern’s prismatic effect reveals its fineness as it showcases the lotus flower, with 12 petals, that has been the symbol of the House of BOVET since 1822.

The Virtuoso VII belongs to the Fleurier collection and comes with the iconic patented Amadéo® case that allows the collector to wear the timepiece with a reversible bracelet, as a pocket watch, or as an elegant desk clock.

An unprecedented convergence of technical ingenuity drives the Virtuoso VII, with dimensions similar to those of a traditional wristwatch; it delivers more information on both dials of the timepiece. For greater comfort and chronometry, the movement’s single barrel ensures over five days of power reserve.

This perfect technical expertise goes hand in hand with all the talent of the House of BOVET artisans. Every component, whether visible or invisible, is decorated using the traditional artisanal methods. The plate and bridges showing the functions of the perpetual calendar are fully hand-engraved with the iconic Fleurisanne pattern.
Technical details
Model: Virtuoso VII
Reference NumbersACQPR012, 18K white gold, red dialACQPR014, 18K white gold, green dialACQPR008, 18K white gold, blue dialACQPR015, 18K red gold, red dialACQPR017, 18K red gold, green dialACQPR007, 18K red gold, blue dial
CaseType: Amadéo® convertible systemDiameter: 43.30 mmThickness: 11.25 mmMaterial: 18K red or white goldWater resistance: 30m
MovementCaliber 13BM12AIQPRType: Hand wound movementDiameter: 13 ¾ ’’’Frequency: 21’600A/hPower reserve: 5 days
FunctionsHours, minutes, sub-seconds, day, retrograde date, month, leap year, power reserve indicator, reversed hand-fitting (hours, minutes and seconds)
DialsRed or green guillochés, or blue circular brushed
BraceletFull skin alligatorBuckle: 18K red or white gold ardillonChain: 18K red or white gold
OptionsDial: Miniature paintingCase, bezel, bow and ardillon buckle: hand engravingSetting: round-cut or baguette-cut diamonds
Guarantee5 years
PatentsAmadeo® convertible casePatented coaxial seconds
PriceCHF. 82’000.-, 18K white goldCHF. 79’000.-, 18K red gold

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BOVET 1822 Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two: Double-face flying tourbillon, world time with indexable second-time zone, moon phase, and five days’ power reserve

After the successful introduction of the Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter One in 2019, the House of Bovet 1822 now presents the Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two. This new timepiece is presented with the iconic sloped writing case made from sapphire. This new haute horlogerie marvel features Bovet’s patented Double-sided flying tourbillon, a second-time zone with a twenty-four city disc, a precision moon phase while offering the chronometry of 5 days power reserve.

The Brainstorm Chapter Two is the second timepiece in the Bovet collection to be fitted with a sapphire crystal case in the emblematic writing case with an asymmetrical profile. The slope of its bezel allows the collector to explore new display mechanisms that guarantee intuitive and increased readability.
Concentric rollers, rotating domes, and three-dimensional needles were used to express time in new ways. The protected design of the writing case opens up new horizons in terms of the very architecture of the movements, by optimizing the volume which simultaneously increases the functionalities offered, the chronometry, the reliability, and the readability.
The collector will discover the complexity of precious watchmaking mechanics from a new angle where the decorative arts illuminate the third dimension in a vision previously unexplored.

The House of Bovet has imagined a movement that justifies the use of the “writing slope” case entirely made of sapphire, the second hardest material known after diamond. The manufacturing of sapphire cases with such complex shapes is very tricky because of the machining and polishing constraints due to the hardness of the material.
Achieving a complex case, especially with the asymmetrical profile of the writing case confronted engineers and technicians with difficulties and challenges that were beautifully mastered with the unveiling of the Brainstorm Chapter One in 2019 and continues today with the unveiling of the Brainstorm Chapter Two which has also been encased in sapphire for the pure pleasure and delightful exploration of the collector.
Ultimately, the middle and the glass form only one single element, 47.80 in diameter, which meticulously respects the original design of the cases in the collection. The back is made up of a bezel and four horns machined from grade 5 titanium. The sapphire crystal case opens generously to display the movement which has many secrets to reveal.
To optimize transparency and ergonomics, the watchmakers of the House of Bovet decided to fix the movement at the bottom rather than inside the middle, as is usually the case. A choice they had already successfully experimented with building the luminous OttantaSei Tourbillon in 2016 and the Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter One in 2019. The Chapter One has been awarded numerous distinctions saluting its design and the mastering of the innovative technicality of its case material and design.

The fully developed caliber for this Brainstorm Chapter Two is entirely manufactured in the Bovet 1822 workshops and is the result of a new design. Absolute control of energy guarantees autonomy greater than five days of power reserve by the use of a single barrel, which maintains the oscillations of the regulating structure at a frequency which has been increased to the frequency of 21,600 vph for spectacular chronometry enhanced by the patented double-sided flying tourbillon.
The information provided by this new caliber is displayed consistently in the volume of the case. A dome dial, available in a choice of blue or green translucent quartz or blue aventurine glass, displays the hours and minutes of local time in the upper part of the case. The seconds are read by an index fixed on the tourbillon, itself, placed at 6 o’clock which makes a complete revolution, in 60 seconds. Finally, two rotating domes placed, respectively, at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock harmoniously complete the shaping.

The dome, located at 3 o’clock, displays a second time zone, according to the construction, specifically developed for this timepiece and subject to a patent. The names of 24 cities representing the 24 time zones are printed on the rotating part of the dome which makes a complete revolution, by scanning the 24-hour graduation of the base ring. A three-dimensional V-shaped needle allows the collector to select the displayed time zone.
This clever and innovative combination, united with the dome, allows optimal readability, despite the reduced diameter of the entire display. In addition to a second time zone display, this new display also offers the world time function, which allows the time in each of the 24 time zones to be read simultaneously.

In perfect symmetry, the moon phase indicator is positioned at 9 o’clock and is also displayed by a rotating dome. The surface of the lunar ground is engraved by hand before luminescent material is applied, also, by hand. The two circular windows which overhang the dome make it possible to read the age of the moon according to the specific orientation of its crescent, whether one is in the northern hemisphere or the southern hemisphere of the earth. The precision mechanism that drives this dome gives it an accuracy that requires a correction of one day every 127 years.
The domes of the second time zone and the moon phase rotate by the patented mechanism of the radial guidance system. Three rollers, in rubies adjustable by a micrometric screw, are arranged on the circumference of each dome. They ensure centering and the rotation minimizes friction and therefore, freeing the interior volume of the globes, which increases the chronometry and the power reserve of the timepiece.

The five days of the phenomenal autonomy of this combination of great complications are displayed by an indicator, subtly, positioned in the middle of the case between the two strap lugs. The indicator index runs linearly, while its engraving is gradually directed on the edge of the movement.
Whether it is design or technicality, the resolutely innovative and modern character of the Brainstorm Chapter Two offers itself perfectly to artisanal watchmaking respecting the traditions, which has made the House of Bovet a success since 1822. The decorative arts, the finishes, and the engraving by hand are a standard of expression directed by the three dimensional aspect of the movement and its case.
Whether flat, inclined, convex, or vertical, all the surfaces that allow this are technically engraved by hand with the emblematic “broken glass” motif. Polished pillars, translucent gems, and delicately satin steels contrast with dazzling elegance. At the back of the timepiece, the bridges are perforated and engraved with a delicacy that commands respect.

A total of only 60 movements will be produced for the Brainstorm Chapter Two. They will be distributed among the 47.8mm-diameter sapphire case, limited to 30 timepieces, with a choice of blue quartz, green quartz, or blue aventurine glass dial, by respective limited editions of 10 timepieces. As usual, collectors may bespoke their timepieces and thereby acquire unique pieces. Regardless, no more than 10 of any single style made from these 60 movements will be crafted.
Technical details
Model: Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two
Reference NumbersR26C2001, sapphire case, blue quartz dialR26C2007, sapphire case, green quartz dialR26C2010, sapphire case, blue Aventurine glass dial
EditionLimited edition to 60 movements / including 30 sapphire cases, only (in limited editions of 10 timepieces)
CaseType: Dimier « writing desk » caseDiameter: 47.80 mmMaterial: Sapphire with titanium lugs and case-backWater resistance 30m
MovementCaliber 17DM06-DTType: Hand-wound movementDiameter: 39 mm (17 1/4’’’)Frequency: 21,600V/hPower reserve: 5 days
FunctionsHours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, three-dimensional moon phase indicatorWorld time with indexable second time-zone with hemispherical city indicator
DialConvex in blue, in green quartz or aventurine glass dial
BraceletDouble face full skin alligator with platinum thread stitchingBuckle: 18K white gold folding buckle
Guarantee5 years
PatentsDouble face flying tourbillonRadial guidance mechanism systemUniversal time display
Retail priceCHF 355’000.-

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Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Forest Green

Germany luxury watch brand Glashütte Original presents a new PanoMaticLunar model with deep green dial inspired by the tall fir trees surrounding the manufactory. The colour gradient on the handcrafted dial is particularly eye-catching: starting from an intense dark green in the centre, the colour changes gradually to black at the edges.

The extremely beautiful dials of this new collection are manufactured by Glashütte Original’s in-house dial manufactory in Pforzheim, Germany.

The silver-coloured moon of the moon phase display is reminiscent of a shimmering lake surrounded by the fascinating green of the dial. The complex crafting of the moon disc is also undertaken in Pforzheim.

Thanks to its unmistakable classic design, the most recent edition in the Pano Collection proves convincing at a glance: framed within a polished and satin-brushed stainless steel case, the dial, with the characteristic off-centre positioning of the displays, is an expression of the Golden Ratio, the legendary law of aesthetic harmony.

The auxiliary dials for hours and minutes and for the small seconds are placed along a vertical axis within the left half of the dial, while the Panorama Date appears at 4 o‘clock. The white gold hands with Super-LumiNova inlays form a sparkling contrast to the Intense green of the dial.

The sapphire crystal case back offers a clear view into the heart of the watch, the exquisitely finished Calibre 90-02 manufactory movement.

Glashütte Original’s signature duplex swan-neck fine adjustment along with numerous other elements of traditional Glashütte watchmaking, such as the three-quarter plate, blued screws, screw-mounted gold chatons and the characteristic Glashütte decorative finishes, provide additional, incontrovertible evidence of their origin. The movement, with an oscillating frequency of 4 Hz, features a 42-hour power reserve.

The new timepiece is equipped with a matching brown nubuck leather strap with pin buckle or fold-over clasp.

Technical details
Model name: PanoMaticLunar with deep green dialLaunch year: 2020
Reference numbers1-90-02-13-32-02 (Louisiana Alligator nubuck leather strap brown with pin buckle)1-90-02-13-32-31 (Louisiana Alligator nubuck leather strap brown with fold fastener)1-90-02-13-32-70 (stainless steel bracelet)
MovementAutomatic winding, Calibre 90-02, exquisitely finished movementPower reserve: 42 hours (± 5 %)Oscillating frequency: 28,800 vph, equivalent to 4 HzDimensions: Ø 32.6 mm, height 7 mmBalance: screw balance with 18 weighted screwsBalance spring: AnachronShock protection: IncablocJewels: 47 jewel bearingsBeveled edges, polished steel parts, polished/blued screws, skeletonized rotor with 21-ct gold oscillation weight, plate with Glashütte stripe finish, duplex swan-neck fine adjustment
FunctionsOff-centre hour, minute and small second, Panorama Date, moon phase display
CaseStainless steel, satin-brushed and polished, sapphire crystal on top and bottom, waterproof up to 5 barDimensions: diameter: 40.0 mm, height: 12.7 mm
DialVarnished in green and black with dégradé effect with appliques
StrapLouisiana alligator nubuck leather strap brown with buckle or fold fastener made of stainless steel, stainless steel bracelet

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Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition

Limited to 25 pieces, the PanoLunarTourbillon features a Platinum case housing a flying tourbillon movement and a hand-engraved dial with skeletonized hands. This new haute horlogerie masterpiece combines the highest levels of craftsmanship, technical sophistication and exceptional beauty in an unmistakable design.

The PanoLunarTourbillon is a new edition of its predecessor model from 2013 and a true work of art.

Elaborate engravings adorn the galvanic silver surface of the dial and the back of the movement. These filigree decorations bear witness to the rich traditions of Glashütte watchmaking, lending each watch its uniquely individual character.

The lavishly decorated dial with the characteristic off centre displays is framed by a case in platinum. Both the auxiliary dial for hours and minutes and the Flying Tourbillon with the small second are positioned on the left side of the dial.

An exquisite moon phase display with blue night sky and the watchmaker’s signature Panorama Date grace the right side.

The skeletonized hour and minute hands, indexes and the blued steel tip of the seconds hand provide accents in blue. All engravings on the dial side are executed in Glashütte Original’s own dial manufactory in Pforzheim.

The Flying Tourbillon oscillates, lightly and gracefully, on the left side of the dial. As fascinating as it is to watch, the complication was originally designed to improve precision. With this “whirlwind“, the entire oscillation and escapement system revolves on its own axis within a minute. This served to counter the effect of gravity on the rate precision of the era’s pocket watches.

The PanoLunarTourbillon is powered by the automatic movement Calibre 93-12. The timepiece has a power reserve of 48 hours and a fully integrated moon phase mechanism. The oscillating system with 10 weighted screws and 8 regulation screws ensures optimal rate precision.
Characteristic features of the Glashütte art of watchmaking, such as sunburst finish, blued screws as well as beveled and polished edges, reveal their beauty through the sapphire crystal case back.

The off-centre, skeletonized rotor has an oscillating mass in 21-carat gold. On a screw-mounted decorative stainless steel plaque, one finds the words “Flying Tourbillon” engraved and lined with gold.

The new timepiece is fitted with a blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with fold fastener in platinum.

Technical details
Model name: PanoLunarTourbillon – Limited EditionLaunch year: 2020Limited edition: 25 pieces
Reference number1-93-12-01-03-30 (fold fastener standard)1-93-12-01-03-50 (short fold fastener)
MovementCalibre 93-12 automatic movement, finely finishedPower reserve: 48 hours (+/- 5%)Frequency: 21,600 vph, corresponding to 3 HzDimensions: Ø 32.2 mm, height 7.65 mm, above tourbillon cage 8.45 mmBalance: screw balance with 10 weighted screws and 8 regulation screwsBalance spring: AnachronJewels: 48 jewel bearings + 2 diamond end-stonesAdditional details: Automatic winding, Flying Tourbillon with second hand, off-centre hour/minute, Panorama Date, moon phase, exquisitely finished movement, engraved by hand, bevelled/polished edges, polished steel parts, polished/blued screws, skeletonized rotor with 21-ct gold oscillation weight, fine adjustment by regulation screws
FunctionsHours, minutes, Flying Tourbillon with small second, Panorama Date, moon phase display
CasePlatinum PT 950Front and back glass in sapphire crystal, water resistant up to 5 barMeasurements: Diameter: 40.0 mm, height: 13.1 mm
DialSolid gold, hand engraved, galvanic silver with blue appliques
StrapBlue Louisiana alligator leather strap with fold fastener in platinum

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