Esta entrada se publicó originalmente en Bitácora de Javier Gutiérrez Chamorro (Guti) el .
A Invicta Watch Europe les gustó tanto mi reseña del Invicta Pro Diver 9094OB, que me pidieron si podía publicarla en inglés y así difundirla en sus redes sociales. Y aquí va.
The Invicta Pro Diver 8926 is a classic and affordable sports watch with an automatic movement. The American brand has taken the opportunity to recently update it with the 9094 model, replacing the old caliber Miyota 8215 with a much more pleasant Seiko NH35 and offering it in different dial colors in addition to the already existing black. The 9094 that concerns us on this occasion has a beautiful sphere in iridescent blue and a bezel in the same color.
|Case||316L stainless steel. 40mm diameter excluding the crown. 14mm height|
|Crown||Screwed stainless steel|
|Bezel||Unidirectional stainless steel|
|Strap||20mm wide stainless steel|
|Functions||Hour, minutes, seconds, day of the month|
|Water resistance||20 BAR|
|Movement||Seiko NH35A. 21,600 bph. 24 jewel|
|Complications||Automatic winding with bidirectional rotor. Manual winding, hacking|
|Performances||41h power reserve. -20/+40 spd|
|Origin||Designed in USA. Made in China. Japan Movement. Made in Malaysia|
|Warranty||2 years (3 years registering at invictawarranty.com)|
|RRP||€285 (offer 103€ with 10% discount)|
|Dealer||Invicta Watch Europe / Invicta Watch Company of America|
The packaging with Invicta Watch starts earlier than usual, and this is because of the box in which FedEx ships the parcel, it is already customized by the brand. Its interior uses the recognizable corporate yellow of the company, and mentions the «Since 1837» that I will explain below. Includes some promotions such as the monthly gifts from invictagift.com and the interesting warranty extension for up to 3 years by registering the product at invictawarranty.com. In this matter, it is without a doubt the best outer box I have ever seen.
Inside, there is a carton box of the same yellow color with a high relief showing the wings of the Invicta logo.
When we open it we find another yellow box, this one is built with a material that imitates leather, although somewhat more rubbery. It has beautiful stitching with visible seams, and the brand name in metallic blue characters.
Once opened, we see the watch wrapped in a yellow paler flannel kind of material.
The packaging is super-complete. The tag label, but also a cloth to clean the watch, an instruction manual/warranty card and cards with the member club service and the warranty extension.
A great first impression that goes beyond what one would expect in a timekeeping of its price. To make it even better, we can download the instruction manual 416 KB. in PDF format). Strangely, the NH35A caliber is not available in digital format, although the NH36A (923 KB. in PDF format).
The history of Invicta Watch Group is similar to the Rotary and Bulova ones. Invicta Watch Group was founded by Raphael Picard in 1837 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, therefore it has much more history than most Swiss brands. Invicta in Latin meaning «invincible», wanted to create reliable and durable Swiss watches at reasonable prices. It was fairly successful, until the company went bankrupt with the quartz crisis in the 1970s. In 1991, some descendants of the family acquired the brand, and based it in the United States, giving it a new direction, long before Stührling decided to do something similar and worse in 1999.
I have seen the Pro Diver for more than 15 years on the market, and it has had a remarkable sales success. The keys are simple, first, its recognizable design, homage to the Rolex Submariner Date (reference 116619LB), which even if its defenders have requested it with the blue dial, it is only available in white gold at the price of €36,500, the steel version only exists in black or green for €8,500.
The second, its value for money, exceeding what Chinese watches offer.
Design and construction
The Pro Diver 9094OB has a 40mm diameter 316L stainless steel case excluding the crown and is 14mm thick. Considering it is a diving watch, it has a contained size and a normal thickness, something that responds to the design of the Submariner that I was explaining before. The sides are polished with a nice engraving with the brand name, while the rest is matte brushed. The bezel is 120-click unidirectional stainless steel, insert material not indicated, but looks like aluminum in a metallic blue shade.
The difference between the 9094OB and the 9094 is its bezel. «OB» means «Old Bezel», and is based on the Rolex. The modern is its own creation, and as the name indicates, it is less classic. If we prefer a Pepsi-style bezel, we have the reference 5053, following the steps of the 8926/8926OB, 8926A, 8926B, 8926C and 8926OBV2.
The hands are the classic Mercedes kind with silver contours. The seconds hands is totally different, with the counterweight reproducing Invicta’s wings in their logo.
The crown is signed and threaded, something essential to guarantee the water resistance up to 200M or 20 BAR.
The crystal is flat mineral glass, unlike more expensive models like the 9937 using Flame Fusion, and that I would have loved to own. Incorporates magnifying glass or «cyclops» for the date.
The caseback is screwed stainless steel, fortunately with a standard screw system instead of reproducing the Rolex Submariner specific one. Thus it can be opened with any Jaxa key. It has an exhibition window with glass, allowing us to see the automatic rotor personalized by Invicta in yellow.
The bracelet is stainless steel and 20mm wide. A bracelet with the central part in gloss and the rest in matte. Its quality is average, although it is signed and incorporates micro-adjustment and security clasp without buttons.
How much the watch weighs is something not specified. According to my scale, with the bracelet containing all of its links gives 150g, an expected figure according to the watch dimensions.
Inside the case we find a well-known, and also reliable, mechanical bidirectional automatic winding caliber Seiko NH35A. It is the same one we already saw in the Gamma Venturo Field Watch #2 Group or the Meccaniche Veneziane Redentore. As you already know, it is a very inexpensive alternative. Despite its low price, it is pleasant to use, offers manual winding and seconds hacking. It oscilates at 21,600 bph, has 24 jewel and according to the manufacturer provides at least 41 hours of power reserve, and a maximum deviation of between -20/+ 40 seconds per day. You have more details in the Timemodule TMI official specifications (1.1 MB. in PDF format).
My unit this figure has been much better, I would say excellent. Only +4 seconds/day, something I do not know if it is because they are regulated by Invicta, or because it has been a matter of luck, but in any case it is a great value.
The watch is very beautiful, the blue sunburst dial is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen. Perhaps the tone of the bezel that is not exactly the same as the dial will make it lose some appeal, but even so, it looks like a watch more expensive than it is. The performance of its NH35 is another plus, something only available to much more luxury watches. It is small on my wrist, I know it is only a feeling, maybe because I am used to bulky sports watches. It wears very comfortable, and its water resistance of up to 200M makes it suitable for everything.
The watch offers a lot, so I end asking myself why not paying a bit more and having with Flame Fusion glass. Its main concern is on the lume. Tritnite does not compare with Luminova nor Lumibrite and makes it lose quite a bit of charm. Comparatively, it is worse than in the Neckmarine Automatic Sport, a watch that is not a dive watch at all.
Invicta Watch Company has decided to expand to Europe where it has different distribution centers, and by sending with DHL, in my case from the Netherlands, I received the parcel the next day and without customs or taxes issues. It is true because the added VAT in Europe, prices are not as competitive as in the US, where the official store offers this model for only $97 (€86). Personally this is not a problem of the brand, but of the tax regulations.
The Pro Diver 9094OB and Pro Diver 9094 offer a recognized design, with quality finishes and good materials for their price. Where Seiko, Orient or Citizen do not reach, Invicta does thanks to its cheaper RRP. Thinking on the rivals, the Steeldive SD1953 at around €95 with the same movementy, better lume, and sapphire crystal would be a good choice. It is advised to assume the risks of extra costs for customs taxes when buying through Aliexpress make it a somewhat riskier bet.
Considering the price difference, I would go for a Grand Diver like the 3045 at €140, although its 47mm may be too massive for many. The 29179 with a diameter of 42mm at €140 is not a bad alternative neither.
Few watches are capable of competing with Invicta’s price. A Spinakker Amalfi is much more expensive, while not much better. An Orient Mako III (Kamasu), is slightly more expensive, but also offers superior materials.
|▲ More||▼ Less|
|Good value for money
Very nice dial color