De Quill and Pad.
Esta entrada se publicó originalmente en Quill and Pad el .
The 2020 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has just published the list of shortlisted (“nominated”) watches in the run-up to the eagerly anticipated red-carpet event in Geneva on November 12, 2020.
The categories for 2020 constitute the following: Ladies, Ladies Complication, Men’s, Men’s Complication, Iconic, Chronograph, Chronometry, Mechanical Exception, Calendar and Astronomy, Divers, Jewellery, Artistic Crafts, Petite Aiguille (watches with retail prices between 4,000 and 10,000 Swiss francs), and Challenge (watches with retail prices under 4,000 Swiss francs).
The main prize of the evening is the Aiguille d’Or, the best watch overall among all the entrants, which will be voted in the room by a smaller jury chosen from the 400 Academy members.
Due to the COVID-19 situation of 2020, there is no world tour scheduled for the shortlisted watches this year. However, they will most likely be available to view in Geneva sometime soon. I fear that must all still be determined.
But enough preamble, let’s have a look at the watches that are in serious contention for the prizes as of today.
The Ladies category contains women’s watches comprising only the following indications: hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve, and/or classic moon phase. These timepieces may be adorned with a maximum of eight carats’ worth of gemstones.
The shortlisted watches are: Beauregard Lili, Bovet Miss Audrey, Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Bouton perle, Dior Grand Bal Ruban, Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté de diamants et saphirs, Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Dégradé de Saphirs.
According to this category’s description, Ladies Complication constitutes women’s watches remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications like the annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, moon phase, a digital or retrograde time display, world time, dual time or others. These do not fit the definition of the Ladies or Mechanical Exception categories.
The shortlisted watches are: Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon, Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse fleur de sel, Jacob & Co. Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace, Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon, Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant.
Men’s watches comprise the following indications: hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve, and classic moon phase. These timepieces may be adorned with a maximum of five carats’ worth of gemstones.
The shortlisted watches are: Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Blue Dial, De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky, Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Green, Petermann Bédat Seconde morte, Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium Edition, Voutilainen 28SC.
Men’s Complication watches are to be remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications like the annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, moon phase, a digital or retrograde time display, world time, dual time or others. These do not fit the definition of the Men’s or Mechanical Exception categories.
The shortlisted watches are: Bovet Récital 27, De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux Quasar Light, Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1, Hermès Slim d’Hermès GMT, MB&F HM10 Bulldog Ti.
Iconic is a new category emphasizing men’s or ladies’ watches from a brand’s emblematic collection, meaning one that has had a lasting influence on watchmaking and its history as well as having been on the market for more than 20 years.
The shortlisted watches are: Breitling Chronomat B01 42, Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph, Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Edition 42 mm, IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph, Piaget Altiplano Origin Automatic, Seiko Professional Diver’s 1000M.
In the Chronometry category we find mechanical watches that contain at least one tourbillon and/or a special escapement and/or another development improving precision timekeeping. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
The shortlisted watches are: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force in stainless steel, Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer, Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.2, H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris.
Calendar and Astronomy is a two-year-old category meant to emphasize astronomical and/or calendar complications included in men’s watches. Why only men’s watches I do not know. These timepieces must include at least one of the following: date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phase, or other. Additional indications are admissible.
The shortlisted watches are: Behrens Apolaire, Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin, IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, Parmigiani Fleurier Hijiri Perpetual Calendar, Sarpaneva Lunations Harvest Moon, Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Squelette.
Timepieces entered into the Chronograph category are mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
The shortlisted watches are: Atelier de Chronométrie Chronographe à Rattrapante, Breitling Top Time Limited Edition, H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic, Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoka, Louis Moinet Memoris Superlight, Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT in steel.
The Mechanical Exception category features men’s or ladies’ watches with a special mechanism such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a belt-driven movement, a striking or other acoustic function, or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept.
The shortlisted watches are: Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance, Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter 2, Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron, MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome, Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, Ressence Type 2A.
The Divers category contains watches linked to the field of diving, whose functions, materials, and design are suited to this activity.
The shortlisted watches are: Breitling Superocean Automatic 48 Boutique Edition, Doxa SUB300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers, Grand Seiko 9RA5 Professional Diver’s 600M, Ming 18.01 H41, Reservoir Hydrosphere Bronze x Revolution The Maldives Edition, Ulysse Nardin Diver X Cape Horn.
Jewellery watches demonstrate exceptional mastery of the art of jewelry and gemsetting. These timepieces are also distinguished by the choice of stones featured in them.
The shortlisted watches are: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Intrecciati, Chopard Magari, Dior Grand Soir Reine des Abeilles, Jacob & Co. The Mystery Tourbillon Full Ruby, Piaget Limelight Gala Haute Joaillerie Opale Noire, Van Cleef & Arpels Montre Frivole Secrète.
Further reading: Bulgari’s Beloved Serpenti: A Brief History
Watches in the Artistic Crafts category demonstrate exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enameling, lacquering, engraving, guilloche (engine turning), skeletonizing, and more.
The shortlisted watches are: Andersen Genève Heures Sautantes 40th Anniversary, Bovet Amadeo Tourbillon Squelette 7 Days, Dior Grand Bal Plume, Hermès Arceau Into the Canadian Wild, Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky Phoenix, Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Soleil Féerique.
Watches entered into the Petite Aiguille category are offered for a retail price that falls between 4,000 and 10,000 Swiss francs. Smartwatches were admissible here, but none have made it through.
The shortlisted watches are: Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton, Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II, Habring2 Chrono Felix Panda, IWC Schaffhausen Porgtuieser Automatic 40, Sarpaneva x Moomin, Trilobe Secret.
Watches entered into the Challenge category are offered for a retail price under 4,000 Swiss francs. Smartwatches were admissible here, but none have made it through.
The shortlisted watches are: Behrens Rotary, Breitling Endurance Pro, Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoka Anniversary Green Mori, Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein, Ming 27.01 Ultra Plat, Tudor Fifty-Eight.
Let us know your favorites in the comments below!
For more information, please visit www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/gphg-2020/nominated-watches.