Just Because: Appreciating A 34mm Omega Seamaster

The watch is a reference 2802 and the movement is the 20-jewel Omega caliber 471. The 471 movement underwent a few variations in its time. This particular version of the movement is antimagnetic and shock-resistant, with a power reserve of upwards of 40 hours. It is 25mm in diameter, with a height of 5.5mm and beats away at 2.75 Hz. During my visit with Ed the watchmaker, I got a chance to look at the movement for quite some time. For a 63-year-old watch, this thing really moves, and it’s a looker to boot, with the rotor proudly engraved The Omega Watch Co. Swiss. All of the pertinent information about the watch was located on the underside of the caseback. Included in this information is text that instructs you to “Fit Washer To Back”, in German, French, English, and Spanish. They don’t want you putting the caseback anywhere other than the back of the case. Neither I, nor Ed, had any issue with that instruction. 

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Introducing: The Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax

Fortis was acquired by Jupp Philipp in 2018, and for the past two years, Fortis has gone radio silent while he’s been rejigging the storied brand to his liking. Philipp is a fourth-generation business owner of a company that processes fruit into concentrate and coloring, and he still owns and operates that company, but these days, Fortis has his full attention. The Flieger is one of the first watches released under the company’s new ownership, and it looks very much like the old Fortis, and that’s a good thing. There’s plenty of history that’s gone mostly unnoticed by the watch world, and hopefully the “new” Fortis will be able to explore that a little more. 

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Introducing: The Doxa SUB 300

But wait just one second there, buddy, because this all feels pretty familiar. And that’s because some of us are old enough to remember 2017, when Doxa – then under different management – celebrated the 50th anniversary of the SUB 300 by making a limited edition run of very faithful recreations, the Doxa SUB 300 50th Anniversary. Those watches, while not offered in quite as many colors, were limited editions, with Doxa making 300 of each colorway (and even fewer for those examples rocking Aqua Lung branding on the dial). I know these watches well, as I own two; one silver-dial Searambler and one orange-dial Professional. 

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My Watch Story: Getting Married In A Vintage Vacheron, An Anniversary Zenith Type 20, A Father's Rolex Explorer II, And More

1. Pick one watch that is very special to you, and get your camera phone ready.
2. Record a video telling us your most interesting or meaningful story about your watch. Let’s say 2-3 minutes is the sweet spot – if you go longer, that’s okay. (And please remember to introduce yourself: your name and where you are from.)
3. Get creative, keep it clean, and have fun! 
4. Take some photos on the wrist and a few shots of the watch so that we can proudly display them on our site. Horizontal, please.
5. To share your video and photos, you can either A) upload here; or B) upload to your preferred large file transfer service and send a link to mywatchstory@hodinkee.com.

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In The Shop – Vintage Watches: A 1982 Rolex GMT-Master, A 1960s Gallet MultiChron 45, And A 1956 Breitling Navitimer With Tropical Dial

×The HODINKEE Shop is an authorized retailer of new watches from a growing but carefully curated set of brands. By partnering directly with the brands we carry, we guarantee 100% authenticity of everything we sell. We even offer free shipping and returns, and a complimentary extended year warranty on all watches, so you can be confident you’ll be happy with your purchase.

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In-Depth: The Classic A. Lange & Söhne Datograph

The Datograph houses the Lange in-house flyback chronograph caliber L951.1 – a movement that was part of a changing landscape in terms of how enthusiasts, collectors, and the industry think about chronographs. Before its debut, little had occurred in the way of development of classic high-end chronograph movements for many years. We take it for granted that “high horology” is synonymous with “in-house,” but historically, it’s not true. Patek Philippe’s first in-house chronograph movement, for example, the CH R 27-525 PS, was only introduced in 2005. There were developments in more widely produced calibers like the Valjoux/ETA 7750, which came out in 1973, and there were, of course, the first automatic chronograph calibers of any kind, in 1969. We should also remember the F. Piguet ultra-thin chronograph calibers, 1180 and 1185, which came out in 1987. But mainly, high-end manufacturers relied on supplied calibers from chronograph specialists like Lemania. The Royal Oak Offshore is one example of this and illustrates the standard practice during the 1980s and 1990s, and even before. From launch, it used a movement based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 889 with a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module.

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In The Shop – In The Shop: Seven New OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Watches

×The HODINKEE Shop is an authorized retailer of new watches from a growing but carefully curated set of brands. By partnering directly with the brands we carry, we guarantee 100% authenticity of everything we sell. We even offer free shipping and returns, and a complimentary extended year warranty on all watches, so you can be confident you’ll be happy with your purchase.

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Introducing: The Remy Cools Tourbillon Souscription

The changes between the school watch and Tourbillon Souscription are substantial. Cools explained: “Everything has changed between my school watch and the Tourbillon Souscription, no component is identical between the two watches. Everything has been completely redesigned and improved. The movement, the case, crowns on the back of the watch, the crystal, the pin buckle, and the size of the watch all have been modified. This was done while keeping the same DNA and design of my so recognizable school watch. Also, from the point of view of the finishing, the two watches are not comparable. For my school watch, I was in school, and I did the finishing with my experience at the time. On the Tourbillon Souscription, I was able to gain more experience, and I was able to take the time to achieve the quality finishing I wanted. When I now look at my school watch, I see the evolution and the experience that I have been able to gain between these two watches, and I find that very important. I am constantly working to evolve in everything I do so that I am never in my comfort zone.”

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Just Because: The Strange Allure Of The Monopusher Chronograph

The disadvantage to a single pusher is that you cannot stop timing an event, pause, and then restart timing. The sequence is start, stop, and reset, and if you want to time successive intervals, you must stop the chronograph, write down or remember the elapsed time, reset the chronograph, and start it again. This crisis in modern civilization was not addressed until Willy Breitling’s patent of 1934, which was for a modern two-pusher design – the upper for start, stop, and restart, and the lower for reset-to-zero. The 20th century was a time of considerable innovation in chronograph design and produced some interesting mainstream innovations (the automatic chronograph, the cam-and-lever chronograph) as well as some rather oddball notions which have not stood the test of time, including a vertical clutch design consisting of a rubber clutch plate driven by another plate with teeth in it to grab the rubber, which has been, deservedly, consigned to the dustbin of history.

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