Esta entrada se publicó originalmente en Swisswatches Magazine el .
The last couple of years have been quiet for Carl F. Bucherer’s Manero Flyback. Now, the chronograph is back, and, it seems, better than ever.
It was in 2016 that the Manero collection first introduced a new series of watches featuring a chronograph movement with a flyback function. Then, at Baselworld 2017, three models equipped with new dial colours arrived, while in 2018, the brand added a retro-style version with a perforated Kudu leather strap.
The reason why the new Manero Flyback will most likely become a crowd-pleaser may well be primarily due to its appealing design, as the dial appears for the first time in what is probably the most favoured color of all for men: blue. What’s more, the watch is now presented for the first time on a stainless-steel bracelet, or alternatively a blue textile strap.
Not Actually A Sports Chronograph
Those who think that Carl F. Bucherer is following trends by producing a sports chronograph in stainless-steel with a blue dial would actually be mistaken. This is because the nine-link steel bracelet is not really sporty, but rather elegant.
It is contemporary, but not trendy, and is able to adapt to a changing sense of style over time – it’s exceedingly casual, and not so label-conscious. After all, it’s the 21st century, and we are no longer being bogged down by stigmas. Furthermore, if you look closer at the existing line, you’ll also see that the colour blue is not entirely new in the Manero Flyback line; in 2017, one version (Ref. 00.10919.08.93.01) with a blue-grey dial (resembling the latest edition) was released.
It was also only a matter of time before CFB’s Flyback chronograph watch was given a steel bracelet; the line was destined for it. Although there are already models in the classic Manero collection that are also available with a stainless-steel bracelet, the metal material still fits best to a watch mechanism that was initially used in racing. Well, this is undoubtedly a field of sports, however, Carl F. Bucherer has managed the balancing act of not turning its flyback chrono into a sports model, but rather of preserving the values of the Manero line and continuing to breathe new life into it.
The Manero collection is and will remain a dress watch, even with a flyback chrono, but in this new version, it is now somewhat more wearable in a broader sense. The textile strap is also different from ordinary fabric bands; it is woven from blue yarn, creating a very elegant appearance thanks to its shiny look. It is noticeable, however, that the pointed lugs (horns) in combination with the textile strap slightly protrude.
Unchanged, the new Manero Flyback in blue also has all the features for which the line has gained a loyal following in recent years. For one thing, there’s the signature Manero case, which is slightly concave and is polished on the bezel side, while the case’s edges and lugs are satin-brushed. The well-balanced dial design of this line was striking from day one, with the two subdials in a Bi-Compax arrangement at 3 and 9 o’clock discreetly embedded in the sunburst dial, all the while remaining easy to read. The date also couldn’t be better placed for high legibility, being placed at 6 o’clock.
The lancet-shaped dauphine hands are skeletonised, so that the scales below are hardly covered. The faceted, triangular wedge-shaped indices sit beautifully and harmoniously with the regular hands, as if their arrow-shaped tips want to lightly touch as they pass each other by. And then, there are the controversial mushroom-shaped pushers, which one ultimately either likes or dislikes. Only on the retro model introduced back in 2018 did the legibility suffer slightly, due to the panda dial.
The Automatic Calibre CFB 1970
The watch is powered by the automatic caliber CFB 1970 with a 42-hour power reserve. It’s based on the ETA 7750, but was modified accordingly by La Joux-Perret, also resulting in the rearrangement of the subdials – the 30-minute counter therefore being no longer at 12 o’clock, but rather at 3 o’clock.
The modified CFB 1970 movement also has a column wheel control instead of a lever-and-cam control including a flyback function. With this function, short-term measurements can be made using the reset pusher at 4 o’clock, whereas on a conventional chronograph, the pushers have to be pressed three times to stop, reset to zero, and the hands restarted. With the flyback, the stopping hand ‘flies’ back to the 12 o’clock position with a pusher and restarts immediately upon release. Finally, the CFB 1970 caliber is finished with Geneva stripes on the rotor and plate, and a pearl pattern (perlage) on the plate and bridges.
With a case diameter of 43 mm, the watch has a good average size, even if some Manero chronograph fans would also be happy with a 41 mm model. The case height of 14.45 mm is also pleasantly compact for a movement with a flyback mechanism. The new Manero Flyback in blue with a steel bracelet (Ref. 00.10919.08.53.21 / 0166-247-5) costs 5,900 euros, and with a textile strap (Ref. 00.10919.08.53.01 / 0166-196-1) 5,500 euros.
After a brief creative break in 2019, Carl F. Bucherer has not only presented one of the most beautiful versions of its flyback chronograph, but also given a small preview of the other new products that the company will be presenting in Geneva at the end of August 2020.
|BRAND:||Carl F. Bucherer|
|REFERENCE:||00.10919.08.53.01 (textile strap),
00.10919.08.53.21 (metal bracelet)
|CASE MATERIAL:||Stainless Steel|
|DIMENSIONS:||Diameter: 43.0 mm
Height: 14.45 mm
|WATER RESISTANCE:||3 bar (~ 30 m)|
|STRAP/BRACELET:||Stainless steel bracelet or blue textile strap|
|POWER RESERVE:||42 hours|
|FREQUENCY:||28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
|FUNCTIONS:||Hours, Minutes, Small seconds, Date, Chronograph: minutes and seconds counters, flyback|
|PRICE:||EUR 5,500 (textile strap),
EUR 5,900 (metal bracelet)