Behind The Lens: Vianney Halter Anniversary

If there’s one thing that beats building up your own collection over a number of years, it’s having a group of good friends with extensive collections of their own who generously share pieces with the other group members. The variety is great, and it’s intriguing to handle (and, for me, to photograph) watches that you might not have considered for yourself or might otherwise never have the chance to see. And the best part is that they are already paid for! It’s good to have friends: Vianney Halter Anniversary on…

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The New Breguet Classique 7137 and 7337

The new References 7137 and 7337 draw our gaze towards the great tradition and craftmanship of Breguet ­– a place where people prefer to take a leap forward than follow the latest trends Abraham-Louis Breguet was your average teenage student; the kind with pitiful levels of concentration, and a constant daydreamer. At least, this is what his descendent Emmanuel Breguet says in his extensive company and family history book, “Breguet – Watchmakers since 1775”. On the one hand, this characterization demonstrates that the general prerequisites needed to become a watchmaker…

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GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SeaQ 39.5MM BLUE

Glashütte Original has expanded its SeaQ diver’s line to include a new 39.5mm variant in blue. The SeaQ family currently offers models in two case sizes; the SeaQ 1969 and SeaQ in 39.5mm and the SeaQ Panorama Date in 43.2mm. The latter debuted in blue with a big date. Today you can get that same lovely galvanic blue sunray finished dial in the more modestly sized 39.5mm case with a small date. The case thickness, btw is 12.15mm. Like that model, this new SeaQ’s intense blue dial is accompanied by…

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Minging: Nothing New Under the Sun?

“… and there is no new thing under the sun” Ecclesiastes 1:9   Photo Credit: Ming Watches The line between inspiration and plagiarism can be extremely fine. Today, homage watches  are a dime a dozen with designs inspired by vintage Rolex Submariners or Daytonas. Even established watch brands themselves often find it difficult to resist the urge to launch reissues and reinterpretations of their own historical designs. To what extent do designs have to be differentiated in order to be considered original as opposed to being an unethical copy? Well,…

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Watches, Stories, and Gear: Testing an Electromagnetic Catapult, a New Grand Seiko Studio, and the Return of Microsoft Flight Simulator

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of some of our favorite watch content on Worn & Wound, great stories from around the web, and cool gear that we’ve got our eye on. This installment of “Watches, Stories, and Gear” is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. Worn & Wound Gallery: Patek Philippe […]
The post Watches, Stories, and Gear: Testing an Electromagnetic Catapult, a New Grand Seiko Studio, and the Return of Microsoft Flight Simulator appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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BOVET 1822 Virtuoso VII Perpetual Calendar New Model with Green Guilloché Dial

The new BOVET 1822 Virtuoso VII is a high complication watch equipped with a retrograde perpetual calendar, an inverted hand-fitting, a double coaxial second hand and a convertible case.
The perpetual calendar is one of the most highly prized watchmaking complications among collectors. It shows the full date that accounts for the specific length of each month, whether 28, 29, 30, or 31 days. The Virtuoso VII timepiece shows the date, day of the week, month, and leap year cycle. Other indications include power reserve, hours, minutes, and seconds displayed on both dials of the timepiece.

The 2020 Virtuoso VII collection is being expanded with a new model available as a limited edition in red or white gold with a sumptuous green guilloché dial. Once again, the dial makers have displayed great virtuosity in creating not only the two dials but also the various display elements in a reduced size.
Despite the reduced thickness of both the hours and minutes dials, they still boast the delicate, unique guilloché pattern designed by Mr. Raffy. The pattern’s prismatic effect reveals its fineness as it showcases the lotus flower, with 12 petals, that has been the symbol of the House of BOVET since 1822.

The Virtuoso VII belongs to the Fleurier collection and comes with the iconic patented Amadéo® case that allows the collector to wear the timepiece with a reversible bracelet, as a pocket watch, or as an elegant desk clock.

An unprecedented convergence of technical ingenuity drives the Virtuoso VII, with dimensions similar to those of a traditional wristwatch; it delivers more information on both dials of the timepiece. For greater comfort and chronometry, the movement’s single barrel ensures over five days of power reserve.

This perfect technical expertise goes hand in hand with all the talent of the House of BOVET artisans. Every component, whether visible or invisible, is decorated using the traditional artisanal methods. The plate and bridges showing the functions of the perpetual calendar are fully hand-engraved with the iconic Fleurisanne pattern.
Technical details
Model: Virtuoso VII
Reference NumbersACQPR012, 18K white gold, red dialACQPR014, 18K white gold, green dialACQPR008, 18K white gold, blue dialACQPR015, 18K red gold, red dialACQPR017, 18K red gold, green dialACQPR007, 18K red gold, blue dial
CaseType: Amadéo® convertible systemDiameter: 43.30 mmThickness: 11.25 mmMaterial: 18K red or white goldWater resistance: 30m
MovementCaliber 13BM12AIQPRType: Hand wound movementDiameter: 13 ¾ ’’’Frequency: 21’600A/hPower reserve: 5 days
FunctionsHours, minutes, sub-seconds, day, retrograde date, month, leap year, power reserve indicator, reversed hand-fitting (hours, minutes and seconds)
DialsRed or green guillochés, or blue circular brushed
BraceletFull skin alligatorBuckle: 18K red or white gold ardillonChain: 18K red or white gold
OptionsDial: Miniature paintingCase, bezel, bow and ardillon buckle: hand engravingSetting: round-cut or baguette-cut diamonds
Guarantee5 years
PatentsAmadeo® convertible casePatented coaxial seconds
PriceCHF. 82’000.-, 18K white goldCHF. 79’000.-, 18K red gold

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The Flying Regulator Open Gear Ocean

From Chronoswiss – Courtesy of Chronoswiss This is the second part of the latest release from Chronoswiss.  Limited to 35 pieces. Here are the pertinents – CH-8753-YEBK  Stainless steel, yellow and black dial,  Limited to 35 timepiecesDISPLAYS:Off-center hours at 12:00, central minutes, small seconds at 6:00 CASE:Solid 16-piece, stainless steel case, with satin finish and polished, bezel with partial knurling and curved, non-reflecting sapphire crystal, screw- down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal, onion crown, water resistance up to 10 bar, strap holders screwed down with patented Autobloc…

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BOVET 1822 Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two: Double-face flying tourbillon, world time with indexable second-time zone, moon phase, and five days’ power reserve

After the successful introduction of the Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter One in 2019, the House of Bovet 1822 now presents the Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two. This new timepiece is presented with the iconic sloped writing case made from sapphire. This new haute horlogerie marvel features Bovet’s patented Double-sided flying tourbillon, a second-time zone with a twenty-four city disc, a precision moon phase while offering the chronometry of 5 days power reserve.

The Brainstorm Chapter Two is the second timepiece in the Bovet collection to be fitted with a sapphire crystal case in the emblematic writing case with an asymmetrical profile. The slope of its bezel allows the collector to explore new display mechanisms that guarantee intuitive and increased readability.
Concentric rollers, rotating domes, and three-dimensional needles were used to express time in new ways. The protected design of the writing case opens up new horizons in terms of the very architecture of the movements, by optimizing the volume which simultaneously increases the functionalities offered, the chronometry, the reliability, and the readability.
The collector will discover the complexity of precious watchmaking mechanics from a new angle where the decorative arts illuminate the third dimension in a vision previously unexplored.

The House of Bovet has imagined a movement that justifies the use of the “writing slope” case entirely made of sapphire, the second hardest material known after diamond. The manufacturing of sapphire cases with such complex shapes is very tricky because of the machining and polishing constraints due to the hardness of the material.
Achieving a complex case, especially with the asymmetrical profile of the writing case confronted engineers and technicians with difficulties and challenges that were beautifully mastered with the unveiling of the Brainstorm Chapter One in 2019 and continues today with the unveiling of the Brainstorm Chapter Two which has also been encased in sapphire for the pure pleasure and delightful exploration of the collector.
Ultimately, the middle and the glass form only one single element, 47.80 in diameter, which meticulously respects the original design of the cases in the collection. The back is made up of a bezel and four horns machined from grade 5 titanium. The sapphire crystal case opens generously to display the movement which has many secrets to reveal.
To optimize transparency and ergonomics, the watchmakers of the House of Bovet decided to fix the movement at the bottom rather than inside the middle, as is usually the case. A choice they had already successfully experimented with building the luminous OttantaSei Tourbillon in 2016 and the Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter One in 2019. The Chapter One has been awarded numerous distinctions saluting its design and the mastering of the innovative technicality of its case material and design.

The fully developed caliber for this Brainstorm Chapter Two is entirely manufactured in the Bovet 1822 workshops and is the result of a new design. Absolute control of energy guarantees autonomy greater than five days of power reserve by the use of a single barrel, which maintains the oscillations of the regulating structure at a frequency which has been increased to the frequency of 21,600 vph for spectacular chronometry enhanced by the patented double-sided flying tourbillon.
The information provided by this new caliber is displayed consistently in the volume of the case. A dome dial, available in a choice of blue or green translucent quartz or blue aventurine glass, displays the hours and minutes of local time in the upper part of the case. The seconds are read by an index fixed on the tourbillon, itself, placed at 6 o’clock which makes a complete revolution, in 60 seconds. Finally, two rotating domes placed, respectively, at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock harmoniously complete the shaping.

The dome, located at 3 o’clock, displays a second time zone, according to the construction, specifically developed for this timepiece and subject to a patent. The names of 24 cities representing the 24 time zones are printed on the rotating part of the dome which makes a complete revolution, by scanning the 24-hour graduation of the base ring. A three-dimensional V-shaped needle allows the collector to select the displayed time zone.
This clever and innovative combination, united with the dome, allows optimal readability, despite the reduced diameter of the entire display. In addition to a second time zone display, this new display also offers the world time function, which allows the time in each of the 24 time zones to be read simultaneously.

In perfect symmetry, the moon phase indicator is positioned at 9 o’clock and is also displayed by a rotating dome. The surface of the lunar ground is engraved by hand before luminescent material is applied, also, by hand. The two circular windows which overhang the dome make it possible to read the age of the moon according to the specific orientation of its crescent, whether one is in the northern hemisphere or the southern hemisphere of the earth. The precision mechanism that drives this dome gives it an accuracy that requires a correction of one day every 127 years.
The domes of the second time zone and the moon phase rotate by the patented mechanism of the radial guidance system. Three rollers, in rubies adjustable by a micrometric screw, are arranged on the circumference of each dome. They ensure centering and the rotation minimizes friction and therefore, freeing the interior volume of the globes, which increases the chronometry and the power reserve of the timepiece.

The five days of the phenomenal autonomy of this combination of great complications are displayed by an indicator, subtly, positioned in the middle of the case between the two strap lugs. The indicator index runs linearly, while its engraving is gradually directed on the edge of the movement.
Whether it is design or technicality, the resolutely innovative and modern character of the Brainstorm Chapter Two offers itself perfectly to artisanal watchmaking respecting the traditions, which has made the House of Bovet a success since 1822. The decorative arts, the finishes, and the engraving by hand are a standard of expression directed by the three dimensional aspect of the movement and its case.
Whether flat, inclined, convex, or vertical, all the surfaces that allow this are technically engraved by hand with the emblematic “broken glass” motif. Polished pillars, translucent gems, and delicately satin steels contrast with dazzling elegance. At the back of the timepiece, the bridges are perforated and engraved with a delicacy that commands respect.

A total of only 60 movements will be produced for the Brainstorm Chapter Two. They will be distributed among the 47.8mm-diameter sapphire case, limited to 30 timepieces, with a choice of blue quartz, green quartz, or blue aventurine glass dial, by respective limited editions of 10 timepieces. As usual, collectors may bespoke their timepieces and thereby acquire unique pieces. Regardless, no more than 10 of any single style made from these 60 movements will be crafted.
Technical details
Model: Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two
Reference NumbersR26C2001, sapphire case, blue quartz dialR26C2007, sapphire case, green quartz dialR26C2010, sapphire case, blue Aventurine glass dial
EditionLimited edition to 60 movements / including 30 sapphire cases, only (in limited editions of 10 timepieces)
CaseType: Dimier « writing desk » caseDiameter: 47.80 mmMaterial: Sapphire with titanium lugs and case-backWater resistance 30m
MovementCaliber 17DM06-DTType: Hand-wound movementDiameter: 39 mm (17 1/4’’’)Frequency: 21,600V/hPower reserve: 5 days
FunctionsHours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, three-dimensional moon phase indicatorWorld time with indexable second time-zone with hemispherical city indicator
DialConvex in blue, in green quartz or aventurine glass dial
BraceletDouble face full skin alligator with platinum thread stitchingBuckle: 18K white gold folding buckle
Guarantee5 years
PatentsDouble face flying tourbillonRadial guidance mechanism systemUniversal time display
Retail priceCHF 355’000.-

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The Cartier Santos-Dumont XL

A gem from 2019’s collection, the Cartier Santos-Dumont is everything we want in a modern dress watch. It is slim, iconic, and of sound watchmaking pedigree. Most importantly, its price point is relatively accessible at US$5,850 for a manual wind in steel and US$15,600 in rose gold. The Cartier Santos-Dumont XL 1904. Louis Cartier granted the wish of his friend, the famous Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont: to be able to tell the time while flying. This was the birth of one of the first ever wristwatches. Featuring a geometric…

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CINCO RELOJES CON INDICADOR DE RESERVA DE MARCHA.

Hoy vamos a revisar una selección de cinco relojes con indicador de reserva de marcha. Mi intención inicial era que fuesen relativamente asequibles, pero cualquier complicación que se añada a un reloj mecánico encarece de manera importante su precio.También había planeado presentar diferentes tipos de reloj con esta complicación: diver, pilot, reloj para vestir… pero he de decir que no ha sido tan sencillo encontrar aquellos modelos que me resultasen interesantes… a pesar de que la oferta del mercado no es precisamente escasa. En primer lugar, y para aquellos que…

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